Archive for Touring
Catch Up
Posted by: | CommentsThe last post was basically to check that
A) I still knew what a keyboard was for and,
B) That I still had access to this blog.
Apparently OK on both counts!
So – After just about 9 months, my busted scapula and the associated nerve damage were obviously a lot worse than I ever imagined after my first few hospital trips. I fairly soon gave up on the NHS – it’s never done (been able to do) anything much beyond simple first aid for me in the last 15 years I have had occasion to visit. Fortunately, I am in a position to take myself private when the occasion warrants and my shoulder was certainly one of those occasions! I paid to see one of the most highly rated folk in the country and after lots of CT scans (I think I glow in the dark!) and several consultations, I learnt that basically, surgery was out (too fucked up to risk it!) so time and physiotherapy were the options.
Time of course has been the great healer (plus an attractive South African physiotherapist – who has been well trained in massage which albeit painful, worked wonders). So here I am 9 months later, able to ride a bike on the road, with perhaps 90% movement in my shoulder and strength that varies from 10% to 90% depending on what I ask it to do. Naturally that calls for a celebration, so I am off to the USA for a 4000 mile trip through the USA and Canada with my buddy Jed whom I met on the trip to Tierra del Fuego.
Catching up
Posted by: | CommentsGood grief – two months nearly since I last posted! I’m obviously one of those bloggers who gets caught up in a fit of enthusiasm that eventually recedes like the tide, leaving all sorts of beached detritus around the web. Well, the tide has turned, at least temporarily - so here goes with what I have been doing bike-wise for the last couple of months.
First, Slovenia didn’t happen but the Dolomites did. It was always the plan to start in the Italian hills, then to re-locate to Slovenia but the time available to the group I was with just didn’t permit the double location so we stayed in Italy. This was no real hardship, the Italian trails were really good and the scenery is simply magnificent. I had a great time in super company and thanks to Giorgio Betteto, our local ADVrider colleague and guide, we enjoyed some fantastic riding and food along the way.
After three days of quite hard trail riding, my damned finger was swollen and giving me gyp so I bailed out to ride gently to the ferry at Calais, intending to meet my pals there after they had spent the last two days riding the trails around Pieve di Cadore (our base in Italy). I took a couple of days, riding via Venice, Torino, Annecy, Gerardmer, Compiegne where I met up with another of my group (Clive who had also left early). We had a great evening doing a bit of a pub crawl before finishing in an Irish bar across the street from our hotel. Despite being an Irish bar, it turned out they were having a Salsa night and it was fun for us two old fogies, watching the young and good looking girls strutting their stuff.
A few pix – first Clive on his GS1200 showing just how deep the gravel was. Then a few pix of yours truly enjoying himself.
!

New Tyres and a Plan
Posted by: | CommentsWhen lubing my chain after my trip to Wales on the GS, I noticed that my rear tyre – a TKC80 was split between a couple of tread blocks. It wasn`t catastrophic looking and it had brought me back from Wales in one piece, but not wishing to tempt fate, I had the tyre replaced this morning at South London Motorrad. I must remember to measure the tread block before using the tyre. My last one seemed to wear down quickly, particularly in the centre section but as I hadn`t measured the blocks when new, I had no way of actually measuring the wear.
Now to the plan – I am aiming to go to northern India and the Himalayas next year! SWMBO has kind of given me her blessing…
The trip will be aboard Royal Enfields – the best bike to have in India if you need repairs apparently. Best of all, buddies from my Patagonian adventure are also planning to come – should be a great trip.
Ireland here I come!
Posted by: | CommentsTomorrow I am off to the Irish Treffen on the Goldwing. I have never been to Ireland before so it”s a real first for me. There is one fly in the ointment however, the ferry tickets were booked by fellow Kent Winger Vern and the timing is such that we have to leave at 04:30 tomorrow morning to get to Holyhead in time. This doesn”t sound like awhole lot of fun to me.. Added to which there is an uncertain outlook re weather. Well, to be honest it looks like a dead certainty that we shall have rain and plenty of it in the next week so quite how much of Ireland I”ll be able to see is questionable.
Packing the trailer, it”s clear that Parkinson is alive and well. The thing is already full and I still have a few clothes to fit in somewhere. I know I shall only use half the stuff – only thing is, I don”t know which half.
The GPS is loaded with MP3s, and various touristy sites to see (it”s a bit disconcerting to find that both Mapsource and my 2820 are not that clever when it comes to Irish place names – they seem to have trouble finding many of them) so I hope not to get lost and to have some amusement on the way. I must remember to get my Ipod wired into the bike”s supply at present I rely on its battery and when that is flat, I am out of music.
Getting Serious!
Posted by: | CommentsGot down to Metal Mule today and had these beauties fitted. It’s two 38l side panniers and a 45l topbox. To get the balanced set-up the standard exhaust was replaced with a slimmer Scorpion exhaust. It is no noisier than standard but sounds quite different – better I think.

Italy 2008
Posted by: | CommentsBack from a marvellous tour of Umbria, Tuscany and the Marche courtesy of Beach”s Motorcycle Adventures.
I was riding a brand new BMW 1200GS equipped with a Garmin 276C GPS (great system – miles better than my Garmin 2820 I reckon, at least for my uses) that was filled every couple of days with lots of routes all well researched by Rob Beach. He has found wonderful motorcycling roads, twisty, scenic and if you want them dirt roads. Umbria was spectacular – rugged scenery, mountains with snow and at times cold winds, as I found out when my brand new bike succumbed to an “immobiliser incident” at the top of a pass. The bike had to be transported to a dealers some 60 miles away so for a couple of days I rode a BMW F 800 ST – showing the value of the kind of back up provided by Rob – also the wisdom of using a simple old-fashioned bike if one wants to do a RTW trip!
A few pics
It was particularly nice to be with my friends from the Patagonian trip – Brian and Shira, even Mr Happy made it!
More photos are here.
Trailer ordered, 8000 mile service booked, new tyres needed
Posted by: | CommentsIn my (respectable on-road) Goldwing life – as opposed to my (irreverent off-road) GS life, I have decided it’s time to get a trailer for the bike. I hasten to say that is not a trailer to carry the bike on but a trailer to tow behind the bike. This will alow me to dump all the stuff that currently adorns the back seat when I go camping with the bike (because I can”t get it all in the panniers).
I have accordingly made arrangements to get a trailer at the end of May when I return from a trip touring on an 800 or 1200GS in Italy (not sure which at this stage but it will be one or the other and I shall be happy with either). The trailer will be used this summer on a couple of outings for sure – Kent Wings Wingding and the Irish Treffen (bloody expensive ferry ride that is too!).
I have also booked my 8000 mile service which I shall probably get done just before picking up the trailer. I have asked that new tyres be fitted although the ones I have are no doubt good for a good few more miles I have used them pretty hard and I figure I might as well get them done at the time of the service to ensure that my summer touring is not interrupted by a need to schedule a tyre change which will inevitably clash with something else I want to do. I am pretty happy with the Bridgestones that came with the bike and I have asked that the same tyres be used this time, altough I have heard good things about the Avon Venoms too.
Patagonia Movie
Posted by: | CommentsFriends (Brian and Shira who publish Backroads Magazine) I made on the Patagonia Trip put this together – it’s great.
Thoughts on riding gear
Posted by: | CommentsPatagonia certainly tested my choices of riding gear thoroughly thanks to some very cold winds, rain, dust and wind as well as taking a pretty heavy tumble that road-tested my stuff. I am glad to say that it all worked pretty well in keeping me warm, dry and safe but with varying degrees of comfort and additional utility. Here are my main findings.
Keeping warm and dry
Several folk used electrically heated clothing – mainly Gerbings to keep warm and swore by it but I relied on passive protection and did not regret it – especially when seeing one of my companions keep draining his battery with the electrical wardrobe he wore. I found that a layered system comprising a merino wool undershirt with long sleeves, a cashmere cardigan and a Gore Windblock shell, all under my BMW Rallye 2 Pro riiding suit, kept me warm in even icy conditions with a 50 mph wind.
Importantly on a long trip, I found that I could wear the same stuff day after day without any odour making it unpleasant for me or the others. Partly this was because it was cold and mostly with a very low humidity so we didn’t sweat a lot but it is also I believe a property of the Merino wool. I alternated the undershirt with a Peter Storm thermal underlayer and this worked well although not quite as warm as the wool. It has the advantage of being a lot cheaper too.
We didn’t encounter a lot of rain but we had one very wet day on the Chilean side of the Andes when I wore my Jofama (or Halvarssons as it is sometimes called) rainsuit over the BMW gear. I was disappointed that this seemed to let in water through the zip but I need to try it again to be sure that I hadn’t made a mistake and left the flap of the zip open or some such. The material itself seemed to keep out water and was breathable as advertised.
Essential gear turned out to be a thin balaclava worn under the helmet. I had taken only a Buff but fortunately was lent a proper helmet liner by Shira – one of my riding companions and this made all the difference between having a comfortable head and a very cold one.
The Sealskinz socks worked wonderfully well. Even when my boots were half full with water, the socks kept my feet warm and dry. The link only shows mid length socks but mine were long ones.
The Rallye 2 Pro suit kept me dry when I wasn’t in the rainsuit thanks to effective goretex liners in the jacket and pants – however some drawbacks to this outfit merit some extra words – see further down the page.
Keeping safe
My helmet, gloves boots and suit all kept me safe including one quite heavy get-off in roadside rubble at speed.
Boots
These were Alpinestars Tech 7s and they proved to be very comfortable, not bad even for walking about in and most of all I believe they saved me from a broken leg or ankle when I came off. Riding the ruts on Ruta 40 threw up a lot of stones and riders without the kind of protection I had suffered when stones hit their toes. My boots completely protected me from this hazard and inspired a lot of confidence when standing on the pegs and riding hard in the dirt.
They were easy to put on and take off – unlike previous motocross boots I have owned and the clip fasteners proved very secure. They were not waterproof but my Sealskinz made sure I didn”t get wet feet. When I dried the boots out, I used two or three changes of crumpled newspaper over the space of a few hours to absorb water and this worked well leaving the boots dry and pleasant to wear the next day.
Helmet
My Arai Tour Cross helmet was mostly a winner. My head is still in one piece and it kept me warm and dry. The visor needs replacing now as the dust on Ruta 40 has scratched the one I was using quite badly. The peak was useful at times as the sun could be low in the sky and quite blinding at times. However, I did miss my BMW System V flip-up, especially when we stopped for a bite to eat at the roadside, or to take a photograph. Despite strong winds, I did not find the noise or head buffeting as bad as I feared it might be.
Gloves
I used first a pair of no-name gloves with kevlar palms and made from quite thick leather that I wear in the UK when it’s not raining and these did fine until it got colder as we rode further south. They were the ones I was wearing when I fell off and my hands are fine. Later, I donned a pair of Frank Thomas goretex winter gloves and these worked very well even in heavy rain and freezing winds. I was surprised because Frank Thomas doesn’t have a great reputation for waterproof wear but I was very pleased with my gloves – which also provided good feel for the controls.
BMW Rallye 2 Pro suit
I thought long and hard about getting this suit and in retrospect it was probably a good choice but not without a couple of downsides. It saved my hide in the fall I had and for that I thank its body armour, especially the hefty back protector and knee guards. The fleecy goretex liners in jacket and pants kept me dry and I didn”t get damp from perspiration. It was also quite comfortable, including around the neck which is often a source of weakness in motorcycle jackets. So what was wrong with it?
First the zips – they did the job but only just. They are undersized for the loads on them and they are not waterproof. The pulls are tiny and can’t be operated in gloved hands. It’s all too easy to find yourself trying to zip the goretex liner to the outer shell’s zip because they are not very different in size. I broke the pull on the outer shell’s main zip – fortunately on the last day of riding so I didn’t have too long worrying about a lash-up solution. If you don’t get the male portion of the zip fully home in the bottom receptacle, the zip pulls apart very easily. I find this a real and annoying weakness. I hope to get the zips replaced on the outer shell, with something better suited to the job.
Second, the pockets. There are just too few and they are small and not waterproof. I need a good sized waterproof pocket to hold maps and other documents whereas the suit has but one small waterproof pocket on the outer shell- just large enough for a passport. The inner goretex liner has a further water proof pocket but getting at this in a hurry is difficult and a real bore. The lower pockets on the outer shell are not very useful at all. Anything in them gets wet in a light shower and they are very small. Aerostich does pockets very well except that they are not waterproof either, although they offer more resistance than the BMW pockets. I did find the pocket on the left sleeve useful for holding my little Canon Powershot SD1000 camera and I have to admit it seemed to keep the camera dry in light showers.
I did like the pants of the suit, even though they only had two moderately sized pockets. They were comfortable, warm and dry although I did find it necessary to wear thermal long johns in the south but with those they were fine. They fitted pretty well albeit tightly, over my motocross boots and the height of these pushed the knee protector on the left leg, higher than ideal. However, that was a minor problem and my knee remained well covered by armour. With the kind of riding we did it was no hardship to wear these all day and I will definitely consider wearing them in the UK on my Wing. They have nice l
eather on the insides of the thighs which will avoid the paint scratching problem my Aerostich Roadcrafter presents.
Camelbak
It may seem odd to include this under the heading of keeping safe but it ensured I didn”t get dehydrated and there was a real danger of that in the cold dry desert. Dehydration is insidious and it can creep up on you until the first time you realise there is a problem is when your attention has wandered and you are upside down in a ditch. I have the 3 litre bag in an Osprey 33 litre backpack and the combination worked very well. I drank the full 3 litres most days whilst riding – I could just get the bite valve up inside my helmet – one advantage to the design of the jaw protector. I did not find the weight on my back a problem at all which really surprised me. Apart from the Camelbak, I had only light clothing and a few snacks in the backpack. This was no problem as its design allowed for it to be strapped down into a small compact package when not full.
Gadgets
I took my Garmin GPS Map60C and that was useful for geotagging photos when I remembered to set the date and time properly on the camera.. Fortunately I did photograph the display a few times so was able to use this as a way of deciding where pictures were taken. I didn’t use it for navigation and felt no real need for GPS nav on the bike. A few follk did have Garmin Zumos and the like and these seemed to work well for them.
I took both a full size iPod and an iPod Nano but didn’t use either much except on the plane journeys. I did have all my important documentation loaded on them just in case I lost the paper stuff but fortunately, didn”t need any of this backup.
My choice of camera – a Canon Powershot A620 worked well until some point at which it stopped focussing correctly. I think it had been switched on in the tankbag and something prevented the lens from extending which gave it problems. These seem to have sorted themselevs out now but not wishing to be without a camera, I bought a new point and shoot in Chile. It is a Powershot SD1000 (I think that is the IXUS 70 in Europe). It takes photos identically to the A620 but is a much smaller package and the menu must be used for settings available on the larger camera by turning a dial. Since I took most pictures on full auto this was not really a problem. It was a good decision to take the smaller camera rather than my Nikon SLR – having the thing easily to hand encouraged me to stop and take pictures whereas the palaver of getting the big camera out of the tankbag or elsewhere does the reverse. The quality of pictures is quite high and thanks to the plethora of good photostitching software, the limited lens capabilities is not really a big issue.
I have Tissot Touch wristwatch and I used the compass and altimeter a lot during the trip – hardly an essential item but nice to have. If only the darn thing would show the day of the week!
My Swiss Army knife proved invaluable as always. I sometimes think about getting a Leatherman for the hefty pliers but so far it hasn’t been needed.
Patagonia
Posted by: | CommentsIt’s hard to compress into a few words just how big an impact my trip has had on me. It is unquestionably the finest motorcycling trip I have ever made and two reasons stand out. Firstly the place is simply magnificent in its variety but most of all in its feeling of being vast, unspoilt and so far from anywhere. The Ruta 40 which we travelled for a goodly distance over three days is a long lonely and at times difficult road and it leaves an indelible impression on the psyche. The Andes with their exciting and refreshing abrupt changes in climate and scenery as one crosses them from east to west or vice versa – which we did several times – provide a nearly constant backdrop to the landscape wherever you are. The mountains and glaciers are beautiful but so too is the desert. The wind is a factor which has to be acknowledged and accepted but there is no doubt it heightens the drama of the place.
The second thing that made this trip so memorable and enjoyable is simply the group of people I travelled with. By the end of the trip we were all good friends and I am sure I’ll ride with at least some of them again. The shared appreciation of the potential dangers of the trip and the enjoyment of the riding probably pushed us closer together than many “ordinary” motorcycle tours. It was 4500km of a life enhancing, even life-changing experience.
Here are a few photos that capture the spirit of Patagonia for me:-













